In the next few weeks I'll be posting some photos of older costumes and clothing items, a kind of review of previous works before I begin new projects. Most of them were made in '01 and '02.
This was the first corset I ever made, and the only one I will ever make directly from a purchased pattern. It is entirely hand-sewn, and as close to historically accurate as I could manage at the time. It is boned throughout the entire body with 1/4" springsteel boning. The grommets are metal, and then hand-stitched over the top to look like period grommets. The edging is deerskin leather.
And no, it is not particularly hard to sew garments by hand - it just takes a LOT of time. I actually found it very relaxing and enjoyable. I just wish I had known how to fit corsets before making this one, because it is far too small for me to wear. It fits a friend of mine who weighs (yes, literally) half as much as I do.
Hi - its very well done, and like you say - a learning experience. This is the second time i ran across your work today, researching my first real historical corset - and it will be based loosely on this very pattern, combined with a lovely mint pink and brocade one from the Met - which you are probably familiar with. a rela pleasure to see it and read your comments!
I'm glad you have enjoyed looking at my work. If you are interested in making a conical corset, you may want to go take a look at my web site. The only pattern drafting tutorial I have written and posted to date describes how to make a conical corset blank, from which you can draft a historic conical corset pattern to fit your body. [link]
This is incredible. It's amazing enought that you managed to create this corset FULLY BONED but to actually have HAND SEWED IT????!!!!! that's mind boggling.
At that point in my life I was directionless, with a lot of free time on my hands. Making this filled the time, and taught me a lot about how to hand-make things. Much as I like the idea, I doubt I will ever take the time to make another in that fashion. Sadly, the corset never fit. I didn't know anything about corset making at the time, and followed the directions given in the pattern, which was marketed to historic costumers. When finished it was too small, and I was never able to wear it. Years later one of my friends tried it on and it fit her perfectly. She is six sizes smaller than I was when I made the corset.
Oh man....well yea the original patterns are far smaller. did you use the book "corsets & crinolines"? I'm making a 1720's corset right now and had to adjust the pattern to my size.
This was some 13 years ago now, and at the time I didn't have any books on corset making. Corsets & Crinolines was one of the first books I bought... after this corset didn't fit. Another book I have which is invaluable for pattern making is Waisted Efforts, but his fit instructions are geared towards stage costume rather than real corset making, so ignore his advice to add ease at the waist. However, he has examples from most historic periods, and lays them out properly (with waist reduction) on standard blocks, so it's easy to see how the relate to a real body.
I believe it was the Mantua Maker stay pattern I used. The pattern itself is great, but the instructions on how to test the fit were very poor. It probably would have fit OK if I had only partially boned it, but I know now that boning makes a corset smaller than it would appear from just the width of the material. The material has to go around the boning, and while that's a small amount, it can add up, especially with full boning. You actually lose about 1/8" of circumference on the corset for every ten spring steel bones.
I have a couple tutorials on my site for pattern drafting a conical corset. It has advice on how to figure out the measurements your corset should have for the most likely best fit, and you can use the conical block to derive almost any conical corset pattern. [link]
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